In many parts of India a pendant necklace — called a mangalsutra, or “auspicious thread,” is tied around a Hindu bride’s neck during the wedding ceremony, a symbol that the couple is bound in matrimony and an indication of the bride’s new status as a married woman. The custom, which emerged in the last 60 to 70 years, first appeared in the country’s western and southern regions, but over time it has been adopted by other Hindu communities across the country, particularly in north India. While a woman is expected wear the mangalsutra throughout her married life, many people now only wear it for special occasions.
Sacred thread
There is no mention of jewelry that indicates one’s marital status in India’s ancient texts, said Usha Balakrishnan, an author and historian specializing in Indian jewelry and culture. But the concept of a “sacred thread” in the marriage ceremony can be traced back to the fourth or fifth century A.D. “This was typically a white woven cord worn around the neck, dipped in turmeric periodically,” she said. “The rationale was for the woman wearing it to benefit from the turmeric’s antibiotic properties, especially for child bearing.” Over time, as a result of European influences and elevated standards of living, the white cord eventually became gold jewelry.
Another interpretation is that the mangalsutra stems from the Indian custom of tying a black thread around the wrist or ankle to ward off the evil eye, while others note its pendant typically falls on the woman’s anahata (or heart) chakra, the fourth center for the flow of spiritual energy in a human body.
Anatomy of a Mangalsutra
A typical mangalsutra consists of a necklace made up of black and gold beads that is 16 to 34 inches in length. It is accented by a pendant. Early beads could have been made from onyx or agate. Later, they might have been glass. Today, most beads are plastic or resin. The motifs vary, depending on the bride’s caste or cultural community. Maharashtra, the state that encompasses Mumbai, typically has two dangling Watis, hollow gold balls, which represent the union between two families. A gold thaali, or plate, depicting the couple’s family deity is common in Tamil Nadu, at India’s southern tip. Bottu, or gold discs, are favored in the southeastern state of Andhra Pradesh, and ela thaali — a leaf-shaped gold sheet, sometimes embossed with an Om symbol — can be found in Kerala, also in the south.
Kinnari Shah, the head of design at Indian jewelry chain CaratLane said that coral was common in some parts south India.
Solitaires have been in the lexicon for half a century. They were created primarily to show wealth and status. Although mangalsutras started out with 22-karat, this changed when diamonds were added to the mix. “We use 18 karat and 14 karat for strength when working on diamond mangalsutras,” Ms. Shah said. The necklaces are hand-made and machine-made. Jewelers use techniques like 3-D printing (for intricate patterns) and stamping (for light pieces). Ms. Shah stated that the most popular CaratLane styles are under 40,000 rupees (about $620); however, some of its designs and those made by other jewelers sell for much higher prices.
Design diversity
The mangalsutra is a traditional piece but can be updated to fit fashion trends. “There is still a segment that loves flashy mangalsutras,” Ms. Shah said. “But overall, we have witnessed a move towards more petite, stylized versions. The younger generation of Indian brides is favoring unconventional versions — symbolic but also versatile and wearable.”
The motifs have also undergone a transformation. When the popular actress Sonam Kapoor Ahuja was married in Mumbai in 2018, her mangalsutra by Usheeta Rawtani Fine Jewellery featured a black bead chain accented with a round solitaire and the couple’s zodiac signs studded in diamonds. “Motifs like hearts, evil eye, florals, solitaire stones and geometric shapes are coming into play now,” Ms. Shah said. For example, “the infinity symbol mangalsutra bracelet is a very popular pick.”
A personal take
Recent brides have been adapting the classic designs to fit their modern wardrobes and lifestyles. Others have dropped the whole idea, disliking its undertone of subjugation. “India is too large a country to generalize,” Dr. Balakrishnan said. “What the mangalsutra means to urban brides is different from how married women in the villages perceive it. Its meaning endures more outside big cities.”
When the celebrity stylist and designer Eshaa Amiin married in Mumbai in 2020, it was with a traditional 22-karat gold and black bead mangalsutra with a thaali pendant from Popley & Sons Jewellers in Mumbai. “But it doesn’t match my non-ethnic outfits,” Ms. Amiin said. She now wears a black and 16-karat Gold Mangalsutra bracelet with CaratLane’s gold drop, and a delicate chain of gold with an emerald drop accented by black beads.
“They are subtle and stylish,” she said. “But more importantly, I can stack both with my everyday accessories, while also staying true to the symbolism of the mangalsutra.”
Source: NY Times
