Fashion has been arguing for decades about minimalism versus maximalalism. Do you Marie Kondo your style or prefer to live in obtuse luxury. These choices were not possible 20 years ago when the fashion industry was more tightly controlled. Our sartorial worldview has become more democratic in 2021, but minimalism is still a popular trend. It is a lifestyle for Jil Sander, who was undoubtedly the most important character in minimalism’s creation.
“As a mental exercise in pure living and clearing our mindscape, minimalism is alive and will probably become more prominent,” Sander told ELLE.com over email. “Minimalism as a lifestyle is very popular among the younger generations, creating less clutter, living in small interiors with little furniture, [and] eating in a mindful way.”
The German designer started her career as a magazine editor before becoming a shop owner. In 1968, she launched her label. She also exhibited her first runway in Paris in 1975. Though her reign as an industry leader didn’t gather steam until the ’90s, with iconic campaigns starring Supers like Linda Evangelista, capturing the essence of the decade. There was no one with the same elegance in simplification and discovering the nuance of a white button down or front-pleated shirt. Without Sander’s deft understanding of deceptively simple clothing, there wouldn’t be Phoebe Philo, Catherine Holstein, or Daniel Lee.
After many departures and returns to her nameake label (she was last there in 2015), Sander relaunched a collaboration with Uniqlo. Uniqlo is a brand she has been partnering with since 2009. Although the +J collaboration was officially relaunched last year, the fall-winter 2021 drop serves to remind Sander that she still knows how make great outerwear.
“I like what seems made for me, because it doesn’t obstruct me in any way by being complicated or superfluous,” she said. “My partnership with Uniqlo was the right thing for me at the right time […] To transfer the former core activities and know-how of a luxury brand to a fast fashion line made sense to me.”
The result is familiar yet engaging. We’re seeing the same staples that made Sander a namesake in the industry: perfect wool blend coats, winged shirt dresses that nip at the waist, and, as a standout piece, a generous down vest that gently slopes in the back. The mass appeal of the collection is that it speaks to the basis of style, speaking to both her die-hard fans and shoppers who don’t know who Jil Sander is at all.
While designer collaborations are becoming more common in the industry, Sander remains skeptical about their value. “The distinguished handwriting of a designer has become less important in times where statistics and management strategies run the show,” she declared about the fad. “Artistic collaborations are one way of objectifying a collection from the start, making it transparent for arguments, reducing the idiosyncratic signature. Collaborations succeed best when product classics like a sneaker or an iconic handbag are reconceived or decorated by highly expressive artists.”
Sander’s distinguished handwriting remains in the abundantly wearable stamp she gives +J. The collection includes 35 pieces for women and 26 items for men. Prices range between $39.90 and $299.90. Today, November 11, FW21 will be available in all major retailers nationwide and online. Sander is the master of the wool turtleneck. We don’t think so, and thankfully in 2021, you can actually buy it at Uniqlo.
Source: elle