To the shock of completely nobody, I used to be as obsessive about magnificence in highschool as I’m now. As a result of normal price range restraints of somebody engaged on a TJ Maxx part-time wage, I spent my free time researching low-cost magnificence hacks. I keep in mind coming throughout a weblog that mentioned Marilyn Monroe’s make-up artist would slather her face in Vaseline each single day. So, what did I do? Little did I do know, this trick would take over TikTok and the wonder trade beneath the identify “slugging” just some years later. (Not saying I used to be forward of the pattern, however …)
Slugging is likely one of the solely skincare tips TikTok has really been proper about, as dermatologists and editors alike reward its skill to hydrate and clean pores and skin. So, in the event you’re right here to ask if it’s all cracked as much as be, the reply is sure. However in the event you’re questioning why slugging is so well-liked, the way it works, and if the ever-debated controversy of utilizing Vaseline—maintain scrolling. Glazed donut pores and skin, right here you come.
What’s Slugging?
“Slugging is a contemporary skincare time period from Ok-beauty for the time-honored and medically-based dermatology observe of occlusive remedy,” says Dr. Cynthia Bailey, Dermatologist and Founding father of Dr. Bailey Pores and skin Care. “Traditionally, dermatologists have used quite a few occlusion strategies to deal with pores and skin issues utilizing topical occlusive supplies together with adhesive dressings, plastic wrap; and occlusive ointments, oils, and waxes reminiscent of petrolatum (aka Vaseline), mineral oil, and lanolin.” Sometimes, you’ll see it on TikTok as somebody doing their full nighttime skincare routine and ending it with a thick layer of Vaseline or an ointment to lock in all that moisture with an occlusive layer, which they take away within the morning.
Bailey notes that dermatologists have been utilizing occlusion remedy for years to deal with pores and skin, particularly dry and delicate pores and skin or whereas utilizing retinol.
Mainly, slugging works as a result of it bodily blocks the pores and skin from dropping water, or TEWL (trans epidermal water loss.) “TEWL is the method the place the pores and skin’s moisture wicks to the highest of the pores and skin and is misplaced into the environment,” Dr. Bailey defined. “The necessary barrier layer of pores and skin, known as the stratum corneum, consists of keratin protein ‘bricks’ mortared along with lipids (oils, ldl cholesterol, ceramides, and so forth.).” The oils and ointments we use to slug create a seal that stops that moisture from leaving our pores and skin.
“Harm to pores and skin’s stratum corneum barrier places the pores and skin at elevated threat for TEWL, leading to dryness, xerosis with flaking, and irritation that results in redness, itching, and stinging,” Dr. Bailey says. “As pores and skin loses water, the keratin ‘bricks’ shrink, creating areas for extra water loss. The lipid ‘mortar’ may also be misplaced because of the usage of harsh cleaning soap and chemical publicity reminiscent of alcohols, solvents, and cleansing options.” Give it some thought this fashion: That thick layer of ointment is saving your pores and skin from dropping moisture over time, whereas additionally locking in all of the moisture that’s already there. That’s why we see slugging surge in recognition within the dry, winter months in addition to in dry climates the place moisture is few and much between. “The underside line is that pores and skin turns into softer, extra pliable, much less irritated, flakey, and symptomatic.”
Advantages of Slugging
“Slugging is well-liked as a result of it really works,” says Dr. Bailey. Whereas it’d really feel uncomfortable to slather your face in a thick ointment, the advantages usually far outweigh that feeling, and Dr. Bailey echoed. “Having prescribed occlusion remedy ’ to my sufferers for years, I can let you know that it has the draw back of being messy and never one thing sufferers are glad to stroll round city with, however is extremely efficient.”
Slugging hosts an array of advantages for all pores and skin varieties. Dr. Bailey recommends slugging for sufferers susceptible to pores and skin barrier points reminiscent of eczema and psoriasis, in addition to those that have over-exfoliated. Slugging helps the pores and skin get well from irritation, nevertheless it’s additionally nice for many who are simply susceptible to dry, dehydrated pores and skin as a result of it helps stop moisture loss.
All this added moisture in your pores and skin could make it seem softer, smoother; scale back flaking, irritation, and itching; and promote therapeutic for pores and skin points from chemical peels to a breakout.
How one can Slug
The rationale slugging is so well-liked is as a result of it’s really easy. To correctly slug, Dr. Bailey recommends doing all of your full skincare routine (whether or not it’s three steps or 10) first. The occlusive will lock all of these components into your pores and skin (and defend exfoliants and retinols from drying you out). Then, end your skincare routine with a thick layer of your occlusive throughout your face. I additionally will typically “spot slug,” the place I simply add Vaseline to the areas of my face that want somewhat further moisture or the place I’m susceptible to dry patches and flaking.
Clearly, slugging is a bit messy and might really feel uncomfortable the primary few occasions you sleep with it. “I sometimes advocate that my sufferers apply the messy ointments and dressings at night time, put on PJs and sleep in mattress linens that they don’t thoughts getting greasy,” Dr. Bailey added. Then, get up and wash off the ointment with tepid water, she suggests.
Relying in your pores and skin sort, you’ll be able to slug just a few occasions per week, as wanted, or each single night time. These with dry and delicate pores and skin in all probability can profit from a typical slugging observe, whereas somebody with oily pores and skin would possibly discover that their pores and skin is somewhat too hydrated. And in case your barrier is somewhat worse for put on, Dr. Bailey suggests shoppers use occlusion remedy each night time till your pores and skin begins to settle down.
What if Slugging Breaks Me Out?
If I had a greenback for each time somebody informed me they “can’t slug as a result of they’ll get away,” I’d be the wealthy man my dad and mom need me to marry. Certain, loading your face with a thick, greasy substance appears somewhat bizarre, nevertheless it’s not as possible as you’d suppose. When you’re anxious you’ll get away, you’ll be able to nonetheless slug, simply sparsely, says Dr. Bailey. Begin sluggish, and solely use somewhat little bit of product. As you discover your pores and skin isn’t breaking out, you can begin including extra. As said above, I’m a giant fan of the “spot slug”—and it’s precisely how I found that my delicate, acne-prone pores and skin freakin’ loves Vaseline.
When utilizing a extremely thick substance, like Vaseline, some individuals would possibly expertise occlusion folliculitis, during which hair follicles and pores get blocked, leading to irritation that resembles a pimple. To keep away from this, Dr. Bailey says to use your ointment within the route of the hair follicles to scale back clogging, in addition to slicing your greasy, oily substance with one thing much less emollient, like a gel-cream or mild serum.
Can You Use Vaseline to Slug?
If you see individuals slugging on the Web, they’re most probably utilizing Vaseline—and that’s not with out controversy. “Petrolatum/Vaseline is the basic, inexpensive and hypoallergenic occlusive ointment that’s effectively tolerated—and going viral,” added Dr. Bailey. Dermatologists, together with Dr. Bailey, say it’s protected to make use of on pores and skin as a result of it’s non-comedogenic, that means it gained’t clog pores (not like coconut oil, an ingredient lots of amateurs will advocate for slugging that dermatologists—and myself—completely cringe at).
Nevertheless, petrolatum could effectively even be your greatest guess for slugging. “At a focus of 5 % or extra, [petrolatum] decreases TEWL by as much as 98 %,” says Dr. Bailey. “Different occlusives research rank proper under this together with lanolin (secreted from the oil glands of sheep and a recognized acne-causing ingredient), mineral oil, and silicones,” noting these are solely proven to scale back TEWL by 20-30 % comparably.
Many individuals are afraid to make use of Vaseline over sustainability, as petrolatum is a byproduct of crude oil drilling. At all times make selections for your self and do your individual analysis. Our crew feels protected utilizing Vaseline as a result of it’s a byproduct that may be thrown out anyway, and it’s one among many merchandise in the marketplace that come out of oil drilling. Is it essentially the most sustainable skincare product on the market? Positively not. Nothing that is available in plastic packaging may very well be. However in the event you’re singling out Vaseline, you need to test the labels of lots of your magnificence merchandise in the event that they include mineral oil or different oil derivatives (heck, even the ultra-expensive La Mer cream boasts mineral oil as its second ingredient). Your nighttime magnificence routine alone gained’t tank fossil fuels, so our crew feels snug utilizing an inexpensive, accessible product that’s been round for hundreds of years.
When you don’t need to use Vaseline, you could have choices. Dr. Bailey beneficial jojoba oil, noting that it’s “technically a wax and similar to human sebum,” however any ointment, oil, or wax can be utilized as an occlusive layer because the final step of your skincare routine.
Vaseline
Unique Pure Petroleum Jelly
That is what you may see individuals slug with most frequently, and it is #1 in our e-book. At lower than $5, you’ll be able to’t argue with the worth or efficacy.
CeraVe
Therapeutic Ointment
This may run you somewhat greater than your normal tub of Vaseline, however the added ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and panthenol make it a sensible choice for some even deeper hydration.
Dr. Bailey Pores and skin Care
Omega Enriched Face Booster Oil
Made with a handful of botanical oils, Dr. Bailey’s namesake skincare line launched this occlusive oil as a ultimate step in your routine or so as to add to your moisturizer.
Bag Balm
Bag Balm Ointment
Dr. Bailey mentioned she routinely makes use of this to forestall dry, chapped palms and says it is particularly efficient for eczema, because of the lanolin. She recommends making use of this throughout your palms after which masking them with cotton gloves to seal in all that moisture (and keep away from getting ointment throughout every part you contact).
Supply: The Every Girl