You can be assured that you’ll be in good hands at Maetomo’s namesake restaurant. A decorated chef himself, Akihiro Maetomo paid his dues working at various restaurants (earning them Michelin stars) then was appointed VIP’s head chef at Singapore’s F1 Grand Prix in 2012. As a purveyor of quality Japanese produce, he’s been recognised by the Ministry of Agriculture of Japan as a goodwill ambassador of the cuisine.
In 2019, he opened Maetomo Japanese cuisine Kaiseki & Sushi, a sprawling dual concept restaurant that highlights two styles of dining. He is the chef. kaiseki counter in a dramatically lit moody dining room at the end of the walkway, where guests can opt for either a Standard, Special or Premium kaiseki.
The second dining room is a new addition. It’s a curved room covered in wood and has seats that are arranged in an almost amphitheatre-like manner along the counter. It is where we get a taste of chef Shingenori Miyata’s (who’s also new to the team) exhaustive Omakase Sushi Course — a 22-course journey that’ll take you at least three hours to complete.
Not that there’ll be anything to whinge about. With 37 years of experience, and help from sushi chef Felix who’s also as experienced, Miyata plies us with picturesque autumnal compositions on painted and silver plates. The second course is made up of three layers of tender crab meat on top of a dark orange roe. Each bite creates small explosions of flavor.
Florence Rozario, manager and sommelier pours us the Nabeshima Junmai Harvest Moon. This is a fruity sake that’s named and produced according to the new moon. Once finished, there won’t be another like it; an exclusivity that gets it a place on the growing list of unique and sought-after sakes on the menu here.
Miyata is an expert in edomae sushi and the majority of the menu consists of edomae. He’s even got two types of ShariaTo go with perfectly-cut fish slices, there are two types of vinegar: one made from white vinegar and one using a stronger red vinegar. It’s only in the second wave of sushi served that red vinegar sharia is used to pad slices of Kinmedai, a silver skinned sanma, and the marbled otoro.
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He’s clearly in his element when it is classic sushi but he also offers many surprises. There’s the Osaka sushi or oshizushi, a pressed oblong of rice molded in a box that’s covered in pickled mackerel from Aomori (fish that’s traditionally used for this) and sea eel. Whereas the Black Abalone from Yamaguchi announces its arrival as a subtle smoky fragrance fills the room, an unexpected aroma given the dish’s muted flavours as the shellfish is only very lightly seasoned and cooked in a kombu dashi.
It’s imperative that you leave some space for the final wave of sushi as Miyata saves the best for last. This is a well-marbled dish. otoro shows up at the end as does the obligatory uni and salmon roe sushi bowl. And if you’re as stuffed as we were, signal weakly to either chef and they’ll whip up a tiny uni hand roll so you won’t miss out.
39 Scotts Road, 01-01 Sheraton Towers Hotel Singapore, Singapore 228230. Reserve your Kaiseki Here and Sushi Here.
This article was first published by The Peak Magazine.
Source: Her World
