Virgil Abloh’s Legacy Lives On at Off-White: ‘Question Everything’

For Anthony Vaccarello, Art Deco isn’t just an aesthetic, but a vibe. He looked to the ethos and style of the era for inspiration, pulling in indirect references such as languid silhouettes and innovative faux fur coats and blurring the lines between masculine/feminine. As the brand’s press notes state: “Nancy Cunard, the independent-minded activist publisher who dressed audaciously ahead of her time⁠—giving a masculine wardrobe her own indelible imprint⁠—served as a guiding template.”

Virgil Abloh’s passing in November 2021 was a blow to the fashion industry and the many lives he influenced. This posthumous collection reads more like a tribute to the designer who not just pushed the boundaries of what was possible, but also created a platform that allowed others to do the same. His supporters also showed up on and off the runway. Naomi Campbell, Serena Williams, Cindy Crawford, and Pharrell Williams graced the runway. Rihanna, A$AP Rocky, Pharrell Williams and designers Olivier Rousteing, Jonathan Anderson, and Matthew Williams sat sidelines. A man known for his quotations, Abloh’s lasting legacy will always be his advocacy for others. This time, the words were waved high on a flag, reading: “Question Everything.”

Maria Grazia Chiuri aimed for a new code of Christian Dior, marrying past and present. The future. The gallery stage featured large-format paintings of women from the 16th century to the present. This signaled their societal roles as people, something Chiuri has addressed throughout her career at Dior. These explorations are further developed by cleanly tailored suits and brightly colored jumpsuits. Speed Racer, and, most surprisingly, the designer’s signature tulle gowns, offset with shoulder pads.