Once, New York, London and Milan were considered the only capitals where great style could be found. This outdated notion is slowly being discredited as emerging designers from once under-appreciated corners of the world are finally getting their dues.
One hub is the Middle Eastern & North African region (MENA), thanks in large part to the hardwork of Fashion Trust Arabia. The honorary chair, Her Highness Sheikha Bint Nasser, and co-chairs Her Excellency Sheikha bint Hamad Al-Thani (co-chairs), founded the non-profit organization in 2018. It aims to foster a thriving fashion community within MENA by providing young designers with an international platform to showcase their work. The FTA Prize is one of these programs.
FTA hosted its third-annual awards event on November 3. Six winners were awarded $200,000 and a one year partnership with MatchesFashion.com. They also had access to mentorship by FTA affiliates. This year’s ceremony took place at the National Museum in Doha, Qatar—the first in-person FTA event since the COVID-19 pandemic wreaked havoc on the fashion industry at large.
The FTA Prize Winners were carefully selected by a panel of elites at a showcase event. ELLE’sNina Garcia is MatchesFashion.com’s editor-in chief. She also serves as a stylist to Law Roach, Gabriela Hearst fashion designer, and chief commercial officer. Presenters were model Irina Shahk and Fairouz Ziane, Al Jazeera TV host. The awards ceremony was just like star-studded: guests included Naomi Campbell, Pierpaolo Picccioli, Catherine Deneuve and Waris Ahluwalia.
Amina Muaddi, an Jordanian designer whose eponymous shoes have amassed a cult following, was awarded the Entrepreneur of The Year Award’s first installment. This award, which celebrates Arab entrepreneurship that has global impact, fits Muaddi like Cinderella’s glass slipper (or now-iconic Begum pumps). Her candy-colored stilettos are a hit with the world. They often have whimsical details like Swarovski crystals and feather embellishment.
Much like Muaddi’s shoes, the work of the six FTA prize winners below is sure to be spotted everywhere in no time. Good fashion, after all, does not stay secret for long. Despite their varied backgrounds, the commonality of these individuals is a unique perspective that can only be found in MENA.
Zaid Affas: Ready-to-Wear designer winner
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Born in Kuwait and pursuing a degree in Menswear at Central Saint Martins college, Affas moved to Great Britain in his tenth year. Affas has lived in New York, Milan, and Ximena in China before moving to Los Angeles in 2014 to start his brand. His work takes a global approach, fusing rigorous tailoring from London’s Savile Row with more fluid, organic shapes signature to his hometown. His collection displays a striking contrast between masculines and feminine. Affas’ creations suit the woman who needs a selection of versatile pieces to fit her transatlantic lifestyle.
Benchellal: Evening Wear designer winner
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Mohammed Benchellal, a Moroccan designer made a career of creating show-stopping eveningwear that could rival the most famous French couture houses. His label, which is based out of Amsterdam, emphasizes sustainable production methods. Benchallal often uses recycled or deadstock fabric and breathes new life into them using self-taught methods. His collections feature monastic silhouettes, bright colors, and a lot of bows and frills. Helena Christensen is his client, as well as Camila Cabello.
Port Tanger: Accessories designer winner
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Port Tanger is an Arabic-inspired eyewear brand that creates objects that have a far greater value than their practical use. Bilal Fellah, the designer of the collection, draws on his childhood memories from Tangier (the Moroccan city for which the brand is named). Each pair of covetable sunnies recalls the graceful lines of Moorish architecture. By sticking to a sumptuous palette of brown, pink, and yellow hues, Fellah’s offering will whisk you away to a sun-drenched riad. The six points on either side of Fellah’s frames provide structural support. They also form arrows, which are a Port Tanger signature.
Alia Bin Omair is a jewelry designer winner
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A member of The Cultural Office Women’s Creative Network and a board member for the jewelry sector at Sharjah Business Women Council, Emirati jeweler Alia Bin Omair is a champion for female-driven design in the Middle East. Bin Omair, a Dubai native, sources materials from the United Arab Emirates in an effort to celebrate the area’s cultural heritage. Her collection is a blend of contemporary and traditional design. This gives them a timeless quality that will be treasured as family heirlooms. Bin Omair’s Satami collection, for example, features rubies and golden disks reminiscent of the traditional coin necklaces worn by Emirati elders.
El Tayeb Nation: Franca Sozzani Debut Talent Award
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French-Sudanese designer Abdel El Tayeb can be found in the highest echelons fashion. After completing his studies at Paris’ Olivier de Serres school and later the La Cambre Mode, Abdel El Tiyeb was able to enter the top echelons of fashion.[s]El Tayeb was trained in Brussels by renowned brands like Maison Margiela, Bottega Veneta and gained industry experience. He weaves his own identity into his garments, incorporating the rich traditions from his native Sudan. El Tayeb’s bold use of color and embellishment is only matched by the couture-like structures that feature prominently in his collections. With this seamless blend of African and European sensibilities, the designer’s “nation” is one that knows no borders and represents a uniquely modern way of dressing.
A New Cross: The Guest Country Award
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Agustín Nicolás of A New Cross champions a minimalist ethos. The Columbian designer’s lineup of unisex pieces are stripped down to the essential, leaving room for the wearer to experiment with and assert their identity. Silhouettes are like a hug from a friend. They wrap and support the body in a sensual way. For Nicolás, tactility is prescient as fabrics are handwoven in Columbia and represent the ties that bind a community: warp and weft rely on one another to create something stronger than their individual parts. The designer ensures that his pieces are ethically made and uses his collections to support rural and urban communities in Colombia and preserve Colombian art. A New Cross Slow fashion at its best.
Source: elle