We predicted the triumphant era in 2020 of the Horse Girl, a twee version of the western fashion trend that has dominated the fashion world since pre-pandemic. In their 2021 virtual presentations, Chanel and Dior featured fantasy thoroughbreds. Kim Petras chose to ignore formality and the Met Gala’s yearly theme, and instead chose camp. Kim wore a complete horse head that was worthy of The Godfather Design by Hillary Taymour from Collina Strada. Now that Couture Week has ended, Chanel is back in saddle.
The Parisian atelier opened its runway on horseback for its spring-summer 2022 couture collection. On the scene, singer-songwriter Sébastien Tellier played oversized instruments designed by artist and the show’s setting designer Xavier Veilhan, a surrealist nod to the bygone days of World’s Fairs. “The idea for the show’s décor came from a longstanding desire to work with Xavier Veilhan. His references to constructivism remind me of those of Karl Lagerfeld,” said creative director Virginie Viard in the brand’s press notes. “I like this similarity of spirit between us, now and across time.”
This content was imported via Instagram. You might be able find the same content in a different format or more information on their website.
Consider the opener a false beginning, as the clothes themselves weren’t heavily equestrian-inspired. Although flappers and horse girls don’t share the same aesthetics, the two were somehow merged on the runway. Viard took inspirations from the avantgarde, creating a collection which reflects the casual opulence of the roaring 20s.
Courtesy Chanel
Courtesy Chanel
Courtesy Chanel
Courtesy Chanel
Courtesy Chanel
Casiraghi makes her debut in the show in explicit riding gear. She wears jodhpurs, breeches and a Chanel tweed jacket with sequins. A set of hourglass suits follows, which quickly transition into the ’20s references that we love and admire. We see a hard-reimagined flapper’s wardrobe, with frocks and geometric prints. Eveningwear is meticulously cut away from your body while sheer bodices drop south imitating a dropped stomach. All in an effort to de-emphasize midsection. Chanel couture shows rarely feature accessories. However, the unique shoe featured in the show will likely become a quiet fashion trend among those who are in the know: a patent maryjane ready for Charleston, which was yet another gesture to the roaring 20s. It wouldn’t be a Chanel couture show if it didn’t include a wedding dress. The show’s finale features a flowing, square-neck gown in bright white. This is the look Zelda Fitzgerald would approve of.
The source material is clear at the end. “These references also belong to Gabrielle Chanel, of course,” Viard continued. “It’s like a conversation that crosses time.”
Source: elle