Perhaps it’s part of the overarching beauty trend of “clean products” made with minimal ingredients. Maybe it’s a desire to return to old-school skincare like facial bars and floral waters. Or it could be that consumers are looking for more sustainable, eco-friendly products. Whichever the case, powder beauty products have been on the rise over the past few years – and they seem here to stay.
These products are powdered and dry, as their name suggests. They can be used as cleansers, essences, or face masks. They are activated only when they are mixed with water or another liquid base.
Powder products are waterless and are therefore free from filler ingredients like thickeners and embelishers.
“Even though powdered products require less preservatives, they tend to last longer as they are more stable,” says Dr Low Chai Ling, medical director of SW1 Clinic. This is because water facilitates the degradation of ingredients by heat, light, oxygen and heat, so removing H20 has the effect of keeping products fresher for longer periods.
Vitamin C is a popular skincare ingredient that is well-known for its brightening properties and antioxidant benefits.
Cha Mina, founder of Korean skincare label GTNC, explains: “Vitamin C is highly susceptible to oxidation, especially in water- based systems and when exposed to air. Companies reduced the number of their derivatives, even though they have greater stability. It is also difficult to keep finished products stable for a long time because most contain a relatively high percentage of water, which is a key reactant for oxidation and colour change.”
This is why the brand decided to encapsulate the active Vitamin C in its Snow Powder Essence into an aqueous powder form. “This maximises its efficacy, blocking out active elements from outside, so it stays stable and fresh until use,” she says.
However, powdered active ingredients might be more stable. Dr Low states that there are only a handful of simple antioxidants that are available in this form at the moment, such as vitamin C (vitamin B) and niacinamide.
She cautions against the idea that powder beauty products are gentler and more suitable for sensitive skin, as they are not preservatives or additives.
“It all depends on what ingredients are in them exactly. Sensitivity is very subjective – what isn’t suitable for someone’s skin may work very well for another person. You should be aware of and avoid ingredients that may trigger your sensitivities. If you’re allergic to ascorbic acid (vitamin C), then steer clear of products with it,” she says.
As for the claim that they are the more eco-friendly and sustainable alternatives to liquid-based products as they require less energy and resources to produce, there is some truth to that – but only to a certain extent.
“There is some benefit to the environment as powder products don’t use water in their manufacturing process, but I think that it is overstated. After all, most of them still have to be mixed with water before application,” says Dr Low.
However, they are relatively low-waste as you are more likely use them before their expiration date. Their concentrated formulas – undiluted by water and fillers – also mean only a small amount is needed to get the job done. You get more bang for your bucks.
Source: Her World