Beauty’s ever-changing world is a constant source of new launches. But even in the midst of such a poppin’ industry, there is ample opportunity to view the industry-wide trends evolving over time. In 2021, we saw certain skincare ingredient trends skyrocket, from the proliferation of cannabidiol (CBD) to medicinal mushrooms to the rise of bakuchiol oil, which is widely regarded as nature’s best plant-based alternative to retinol. “Skincare is trending in an interesting direction that combines the trust of doctors with an enthusiasm for plant-based medicine,” said board-certified plastic surgeon Dr. Julius Few, founder of The Few Institute.
He explained that along with evidence-based dermatological staples and cosmeceuticals (think: retinol or vitamin C), there is also evidence-based cosmeceuticals.There is a growing demand to find plant-based alternatives and sources. “People want to see natural products that aren’t full of synthetically derived ingredients but also want to know that these ingredients have been demonstrated and proven in a clinical setting.”
There are also environmental factors that are driving skin trends due to their impact on the skin’s needs—like the stress of the pandemic. Aesthetic nurse Samantha Pang of Skin Spirit explained, “[With] our skin undergoing stress related to internal and external factors—including the use of masks and pandemic-related stress—skin has experienced greater amounts of inflammation and oxidative damage. Therefore, ingredients that can slow down oxidative damage or enhance antioxidant ability have been important for maintaining skin homeostasis.” This also explains the continued appreciation for the skin barrier, the biological function that helps fortify the skin against environmental aggressors, thereby reducing inflammatory breakouts like acne (while keeping moisture locked in).
With evidence of this green-leaning shift toward anti-inflammatory, barrier-strengthening active ingredients underway, we are getting a glimpse of what the year ahead will hold. On that note, we’re calling it—here are eight active ingredients that will be trendy in 2022.
1. Green Tea
Green tea is known for its powerful dose of antioxidants that fight free radicals. But Pang also pointed out that the tea contains epigallocatechin gallate (or EGCG). “Studies have shown that green tea can inhibit melanogenesis and tyrosinase activity, thereby reducing pigmentation, to help protect against UV radiation, reduce inflammation, and even reduce sebum protection.” This makes the ingredient helpful for everything from anti-aging (via antioxidant protection) to anti-acne.
MARA
Evening Primrose + Algae Green Tea Retinol Oil
This oil is multi-functional and can be used as a serum in your skin care routine. Retinol is a potent oil that promotes cell renewal and collagen production. It also works well with fermented tea.
HERBIVORE
Jasmine Green Tea Oil Control toner
The green tea toner smells wonderful, but that is only a small part of its skin-loving capabilities. Your skin will be nourished with soothing aloe vera, soothing witch hazel, and antioxidants made from green and white teas.
2. Water-soluble CBD
You’ve definitely seen your fair share of CBD skincare products, many of them delivering the active in oil blends. But it turns out, water-soluble CBD is the more bioavailable form of the ingredient, meaning it is more readily accessed by your skin cells—and yes, there is peer-reviewed research to confirm this. “CBD is naturally extremely hydrophobic,” said Dr. Few, noting that this makes it difficult for the ingredient to cross the skin’s aqueous layer. “By making the CBD more water-soluble and incorporating it into a water-based formula, we can make the CBD cross this layer much faster and more efficiently than a pure CBD oil.”
Dr. Few also pointed out that this makes actives more uniformly dosed in a formula and allows for easier mixing with other ingredients.
AFORÉ
CBD Effusive Skin Spray
Dr. Few’s award-winning, watersoluble CBD mist contains green tea, vitamin A, and witch hazel.
Priya Apotheca
The Awakening Starter Pack
This starter kit by Priya Apoethca will give your skin a complete anti-inflammatory regimen. This kit contains actives like vitamin C, hyaluronic and red algae as well as water-soluble CBD.
3. Plant-Based Ceramides
Ceramides are a group of ingredients that literally hold the skin’s cells together. They are amazing for soothing the skin and strengthening the skin’s barrier. Krupa Koestline, cosmetic pharmacist, stated that this importance on barrier repair is particularly important given the popularity of harsh and harmful actives. “Most products now use synthetic ceramides instead of plant-based ones, and there will be a shift to using plant-based versions derived from sweet potatoes, wheat, and rice in 2022.”
Pacifica
Vegan Ceramide Barrier Face Creme
Ceramides made of plant-based substances nourish the skin barrier. Oat kernel flour and calendula soothe, and shea Butter hydrates. Niacinamide is an additional benefit that promotes even skin tones and skin barrier function.
BeautyStat
Universal Microbiome Barrier Balancing Cleanser
This gentle cleanser contains antimicrobial silver and coconut-based surfactants. Vegan ceramides are also included to replenish the skin barrier.
4. Fermented Ingredients
Koestline dubbed fermented ingredients—packed with postbiotics that are rich in vitamins, antioxidants, polysaccharides, and more—as being popular picks in 2022. “What is new is the ingredients we’re seeing fermented, like rose, millet, fig, barley, and soy,” she said. Koestline noted that these ingredients are good for wound healing, inflammation reduction, and strengthening the skin barrier. She also pointed out that recent increases in their use are due to supply chain issues and efforts at reducing waste.
DASSAI
Facial Treatment Mask
Made from fermented sake lees—a beauty secret first discovered in Japan—these face masks deliver major glow. The Sake Lee Essence contains 16 natural amino acids that, together with hydrolyzed colla, provide remarkable moisture. Each mask also delivers vitamin C derivatives to the skin, which provide brightening and antioxidant rich support.
Strange Bird Beauty
Gaia Earth Drops
This powerful, nourishing oil will be a hit with luxury clean beauty fans. It includes fermented camellia seeds oil, fermented Ginseng oil, and vitamin-C-rich Amla oils. This indie gem of a oil contains amethyst essence to help you develop your intuition.
5. Prebiotics
Probiotics had a big year in 2021—and with good reason, considering the role they play in the skin’s protective microbiome of bacteria—but prebiotics are another source of microbiome support. “Prebiotics are food for probiotics in the simplest sense,” Koestline said. “They are the chemical compounds probiotics need to thrive and mainly consist of plant-based sugars, oils, and carbohydrates.” Koestline added that oat, ginseng, and glucomannan (which is great for acne) are already existing prebiotics in skincare.
Sweet Chef
Moisturizer with Vitamin C Oil-Free Gel Moisturizer – Ginger + Vitamin C
This little moisturizer comes packing a bevy of benefits—antioxidant-rich vitamin C, brightening turmeric, hydrating aloe water and hyaluronic acid, and even niacinamide. Its name ingredient, ginger, has prebiotic and 40 other antioxidant properties.
Sage & Ylang
Beauty Essence
This glowing pick can be used after toner. It gently supports your skin’s microbiome by providing pre, pro and postbiotics as well as fermented or plant actives. It is pricey but we consider it a skin supplement.
6. Niacinamide
It was popularized in 2021 and will likely continue to be in demand in 2022. It is a water-soluble vitamin B3 that provides antioxidant and anti-inflammatory support. Pang noted, “This ingredient has been seen to improve wrinkles, texture, skin elasticity, and hyper-pigmentation, [plus] it plays well with other actives to brighten, fight acne, and anti-age the skin.” It is also credited with being supportive of the skin barrier, helping to moderate oil production, and thereby refining the appearance of pores.
Paxos Skincare
Vitamin B Serum
This amazing indie serum contains 5% tone-evening and plumping Niacinamide. This serum is rich in vitamin-rich avocado oil and soothing aloe verdea, which are additional sources of hydration.
NATURIUM
5% Niacinamide Gel Cream
This gel cream is for all skin types. It has a generous amount of niacinamide, which helps improve the skin’s barrier function and refine pores.
7. Upcycled Ingredients
Sustainability is on everyone’s minds, and with good reason. Recycling valuable ingredients and reducing waste is one way to make the beauty industry more eco-friendly. You can also reduce waste by choosing reusable tools, especially packaging. Biodegradable and recyclable packaging are better than single-use plastics. It is possible to make a significant difference by choosing vegan products that are not subject to the harsh emissions of factory farming or simply sourcing ingredients from eco-conscious companies that carefully harvest ingredients.
UpCircle Beauty
Eye Cream containing Hyaluronic Acid
Caffeine helps lighten dark circles. Hyaluronic acid hydrates, plumps and hydrates. But the coolest thing about this brand? Its waste-reduction mission. This cruelty-free, vegan product uses repurposed coffee oils and upcycled maple extracts to improve the skin barrier and boost collagen.
Le Prunier
Plum Beauty Oil
This patent-pending blend is made from sumptuous plum varietyetals. It is amazing for the skin.
8. Bioidentical Ingredients
“The trends around bioidentical ingredients will continue to grow as consumers become more educated on their benefits,” said board-certified dermatologist Antony Nakhla. “They are synthesized to be biologically identical to the molecules already found in your skin. That means that we use ingredients that are not foreign to skin cells but those that the body recognizes and uses to communicate from one cell to the other.” While they are lab synthesized, Dr. Nakhla pointed out that they essentially already speak the language of the human skin cells, thus working more efficiently. As you might expect, these high-tech ingredients can run up quite a bill, but for the skincare obsessed, they’re worth it.
BIOEFFECT
EGF Serum
This luxury serum is an award-winning product that uses a form derived from barley epidermal growth factors to create the gentle, non corrosive anti-aging ingredient. It helps to promote cell turnover and target the formation of structural proteins that cause sagging and wrinkles (i.e. Collagen and Elasticin.
Eighth Day
Regenerative Serum
Although it’s expensive, Dr. Nakhla’s beauty editor-beloved product is well worth the cost. This serum, which contains Peptide Rich Plasma, a topical that contains 24 bioidentical Peptide, Growth Factors, and Amino Acids, heals the skin quickly, promotes firmness and absorbs quickly to deep layers of the skin for effective results.
Source: The Every Girl
